Wheel Bearing Care and
Feeding
Trailer Wheel Bearing Repacking and Replacement
These instructions apply to both non-brake
axles and brake axels (drum brakes in my case)
Also as in other parts of this web-site, there are processes
that I use that may cause sneers in some parts of our society,
but you are free to do what you want. I am passing on MY
experiences and feelings - you are initialed to yours, please
respect mine, reply if you wish, I am open to all suggestions,
except as to where to go.... I have the map. thanks - jb <bgr>
There are some reference pictures on
the bottom of this page... |
| Tools Needed:
|
Jack |
Hammer
Channel Lock Pliers
Side Cutters or Needle Nose Pliers |
Regular Screwdriver
Lug Wrench
Brass Punch(only if replacing bearing races) |
Optional Tools But not Necessary:
Seal puller |
Seal and Bearing Race Installer
Wheel Bearing Packing Tool |
Supplies:
Wheel Bearing Grease (there are feelings about mixing
brands - your choice)
New seals (if they need replacing – more feelings “I”
have had luck in reusing more than once YMMV)
Bearings and Races ( if need replacing)
Rags – paper towels
Rubber gloves |
Cotter Pins (reusing if OK)
Cardboard (I use to put all the pieces on and keep
clean)
Parts Wash (mineral spirits, brake cleaner, your choice
in this matter, if you use gasoline, be aware that it is
a fire hazzard and will remove ALL traces of lubrucant
and you will have to recoat ALL bearing surfaces 100%
cause that's what happens, the bearings will be DRY
unless you make SURE that 100% is covered, I AM
repeating!! )
|
|
Getting Started - you may want to
print this one out and have with you when you are
working...
Block opposite wheel front and back to keep from rolling
if not hooked up.
Loosen lug nuts. (use the same tool that you will use on
the road)
Jack up , When jacking put jack under where the axle
attaches to the spring or on the frame or use the
“stabilizer
jacks” that are on the trailer – If you have axle type
trailer
- DO NOT EVER JACK UP INTHE MIDDLE OF THE AXLE
this will cause the axle to bend.
Place jack stands or blocks under trailer frame on
either side of the wheel (this is for safety in case the
jack fails. (or you get too pushy..)
Remove:
Wheel and tire.
Dust cap (or bearing buddy if you have one) use channel
lock pliers or hammer and screwdriver.
Cotter pin. //
Big nut. //
Washer. //Hub assembly; Slide off axel the outer bearing will
fall out. (Catch it or it’s dirty..)
Wipe old grease from axle shaft.
Take hub assembly to workbench or table (but not kitchen
table unless you live alone – then it’s your party! ).
Remove rear seal using seal puller
(works best) or screw driver and pliers. – or use a
round type implement- wood dowel comes to mind or a 2x2
(soft) and drive the inner bearing against the seal and
it will come out – be VERY careful (taps vs pounding)
and you can / may-may not reuse it)
Remove inner bearing, it will fall out.
(or come out with the above maneuvers)
Clean bearings in parts wash.
DO NOT spin with an air gun you can blow them
dry though.
Inspect bearings for, nicks, gouges,
rust, pits, lines, also spin by hand if they do not spin
freely replace, If in doubt replace them.
Clean all old grease from inside of
hub.
If wheel bearings need replaced you will have to
replace races!! (this is Gospel !)
Remove old races from hub using hammer
and punch be careful not to mark the inside surface of
the hub.
Install new races using hammer and
brass punch tap down evenly till seated I prefer to use
the bearing race and seal tool if makes it so much
easier. Or you can find a socket the size of the race
and use that as a driver…
The following is messy, but the best part, cause YOU
know that YOU did it CORRECT!!
Repack bearings using the bearing
packer or I do it by hand the old fashion way by putting
some grease in the palm of your hand and "cutting" the
bearing into it to force grease between the inner race
and the cage.
Work this from the big side to the little side till
grease comes out the top of the cage.
I do both bearings at once so I only have to clean hands
once. (the reason for the gloves if used…)
I do NOT do the following step - see the note:
Put some grease into the hub cavity , not a lot about a
golf ball size or so.
NOTE: This is
another “do what you feel is best thing” – I just use
the grease that is on the repacked bearing/race as too
much will come out the seal, collect dirt, work dirt
into seal, run seal, dirt into bearings, and you know
the rest. AND if you have brakes,,,, you will NOT have
them ……..
Place the inner bearing into hub (race).
Install new seal (or the cleaned up old
one)use hammer and tap it in evenly the whole way
around, or use seal installer tool or the socket or
board (2x4) method..
Place hub assembly on the clean axle.
Install:
Outer bearing on axel shaft. //
Washer putting tab in grove if there is one.
PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO THE
FOLLOWING FOR BEARING TENSION !!!
Big Nut - tighten as tight as you can, (by hand, channel
locks – use reason) then back off a 1/4 turn this will
set preload on bearing. The hub should spin freely, but
not have any play. If it has play tighten up just enough
to remove play – this is where “feelings” come into play
– “tight” for me is “real snug” in MY book… I snug up,
rotate the wheel both ways, should be some drag (grease,
friction),,, then loosens up ½ to 1 turn, rotate again,
re-snug, rotate again, then back off of “real snug” as
needed then and install the lock. – when adjusting
bearing preload – too tight is NOT GOOD – if you need to
‘error’ do it on the loose side – the bearings will
overheat if too tight, a LITTLE looser is not bad….
New cotter pin , you may need to tighten nut a little to
get the slots to line up. (this is another’s opinion,
mine is stated above – looser is better than tighter)
Some persons place a little grease inside dust cover (or
bearing buddy) and reinstall tap it on with a hammer.
(again, WHY….. not needed)
Reinstall wheel and tire – use
anti-seize compound on the lugs. – Spin (rotate) tyre –
should be no sound, no “snapping” – stuttering – just a
little (very little) drag, but wheel should rotate
freely and come to a gradual stop…and NOT have ANY top
to bottom side play..
Remove safety stands and lower jack.
Tighten lug nuts in a criss-cross
pattern. NOTE: I use the same tool
to tighten up the lugs as I will use in the field to
remove them (think about that one)
Repeat on other side.
Take for test ride. Stop after a few miles and feel to
see if bearings are hot or cool (if cool then
congratulations) (if hot that’s not good either too
tight. I have never had them get hot though EXCEPTION
Trailers with brakes - the hub itself will become warm
after a lot of stopping so it may be warm.
After a few trips (100 miles or less in my book) jack up
and see if there is any play in the wheel if there is
remove cap and tighten nut just till play is gone.
SOME TIPS ON WHEEL BEARINGS
If you see grease on the inside of the wheel that
usually means that the axle seal is bad.
When repacking – too MUCH grease is just as bad as too
LITTLE grease… use enough to pack and lube the bearings
and NEVER fill the hub!!! (only the boaters do that and
how many boat / trailers do you see on the side of the
road?? From no grease to too much……)
It is a good idea to feel your hubs when you stop for
fuel or get home to make sure they are not getting hot(
I do this at EVERY STOP and ALL THE TIME –check your
trailer tyre for heat too..).
Repack every year, cause of the chance of winter
moisture and you shouldn't have any problems.
Some people carry a spare set of bearings, packed with
grease and in a Ziploc bag. I do not..
The usual non professional disclaimer:
I am not a professional mechanic but I do a most of my
own maintenance, I do not guarantee the results. The
above suggestions are just that – suggestions, any use
of them is at your risk, they worked for me and I hope
that they work for you as well. Any input or suggestions
welcome. |
| |
|
