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Trailer Towing Info

This area mentions several personal ideas / mods and thinking (tough at times)
Some of these were on the Delphi forum - good info there - here too.
Some of these ideas may/are repeated else ware.. sorry.. jb

 

Aug 29-06

General Discussion
 -  this "letter" is in answer to someone who wondered what it is like to tow a trailer - 1st Trip with the tent trailer

Hi,

(this is a long post, but bear with me )

I tow an '06 Aspin Classic - 414# or so MT - 620# or so loaded (have electric brakes with a on-off switch in line...)

NOW - I have drove it (the trailer) (after turning the brakes off)... it IS a handful - needs 2-3 times the regular SAFE stopping distance as with the brakes "on".

- Having said that - if you "let off of the gas" or do not "accelerate slightly" in the turns (remember the MSF-BRC??)- THE TRAILER WILL PUSH YOU ALL ALROUND !!! 

Turns (and all other movements) need to be slower, more precise and as PLANNED as possible. You will NOT want fast dodging maneuvers.

Sudden movements --dodging, fast turns, downhill, letting off fast and/or letting off or breaking downhill and epically downhill turns can get deadly in a hurry!!

I WILL REPEAT - BREAKING OR LETTING OFF OF THE GAS IN A DECENDING RADII, DOWNHILL TURN WILL KILL YOU OR MAKE YOU WISH FOR CLEAN PANTS/SHORTS!!

I do not want to be an alarmist, but when you pull anything that is a significant amount of weight (close to 1/3-1/2 or the bike weight) - you have to relearn your ride!  It can, and is, being done every day - but you need to adjust your ride style for the load and road.

When I ride two up (wife and I are NOT small) (bike is 700# mt) - trailer is 625+ - there is a new driver in towne - ME !! 

SLOWER - very precise movements - (acculturation is not there anyway-forget it )

Any turning is well planned out, slowed to approach speed in advance, more upright and with speed in complete control, passing is just about not there..... forget that one..

Stopping is planned out WWWAAAYYYYY in advance - engine braking is used a lot (others will disagree  - another topic - another  time) -  but having said that - with the electric brakes properly tuned - I can stop the bike/trailer in almost the same distance as I do with just two up. - I do not plan that - I ride as if there's no brakes on bike or trailer......

You will want to play with the tongue weight - you will hear the 10% rule spoken of (10% of the trailer weight on the tongue).  IMHO - that is OK for cars - trucks, etc. they can take the weight and weight sway or weight throw (side to side)....

But again IMHO - 45# is about MAX in any two wheeler... (again there are differences on this) but that is what I strive for.  I try not to run over 40 and am going to play with this soonest....  MY bike is comfortable (as one can get) with the trailer combo as I have it loaded....

On my trailer, I extended the tongue 20" and that gave ME a "new trailer" - (see other posts on that) - it is VERY much more stable behind the bike and car too.  One part of that is that I went from the thinner tube (I think it's less then 0.120??) to the 1/8" wall - there IS a lot less flex and twist.... plus the extra length gave me a new trailer....

Keep the trailer tyres up to (30-40#) - bike tyres up too!
Shocks need help if possible (the GL1100a has air shocks - neetooo) - all unnecessary weight off the bike(that's what the trailer is for) - the side bags only have rain gear, camera and computer ..., etc.

Above all - common sense and carefulness is the guideline - hope this rambling helps...

take care - john b - Wisconsin Cheesehead - '83 GL1100A - '06 Aspin Classic

 



TRAILER WIGGLIES

 I had a prob right off the bat - with the trailer wiggles.... mine was unstable at any speed over 45mph and at any tongue weight (I will NOT go over 45#) - - so I got a new tongue bar (one gauge heavier - 1/8" walls) - cut it 30" longer - THAT was way too much.... re-cut it back to 20" longer - re-drilled and repainted and wa-la - steady at all speeds (like a rock ) had up to 80+.....

(45# max is my tongue weight target - 50# fish scale works like a champ - do NOT guess at this) I balance out the final weight with drinking water bottles.. you will be surprised what 5-6 Sam's h2o  bottles moved from the front to the back will do to the balance weight....

BUT remember that you do NOT want your load to shift at ALL !!!

I also have the electric brakes - need to putz to get them set correct, but it's worth it..... stops are smooth.... no down hill push....

am running 25-35# tyre air less bounce, but pulls smooth

It is a load for my '83 GL1100a - mileage goes from 43 to 30-32 - at highway speeds - 55 to 65 as needed - When we are two up ( we are NOT light weights either <smirk>)

BTW, you need to actually WEIGH your trailer both MT and loaded  for travel!

I use a bathroom scale - do one wheel ramp it up - - weigh both sides and add the tongue stand weight....

Mine when new and empty (cooler kit, electric brakes, awning kit, bed pockets, chrome kit, spar tyre, rear reflective bumper) clocked in at 430# new and dry..

Ready to camp - without camp food, just some dry goods, mine checks in about 630# or more - with all gear I weigh it before EVERY trip...(it's on a diet, what we do not use in three trips is getting trimmed out)

You KNOW that it (the trailer) is there when towing..... just be carefuller.

Hope this helps,

john b -  Wisconsin Cheesehead - '83 GL110a - '06 Aspen Classic


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Hi All,

for what it's worth (not much considering inflation these days)  some of what Diamond Jim's Tax Hell of Wisconsin requires: 
When does a trailer need trailer brakes?
Trailer brakes are required if the trailer and load exceed 3,000 pounds or if the trailer's gross weight exceeds the empty weight of the towing vehicle. RE: Wisconsin statute 348.10 (4)
Does my trailer need safety chains?
Yes, unless it is a fifth-wheel and king pin assembly mount. Other fifth wheel mounts require safety chains.

From: http://www.dot.state.wi.us/statepatrol/inspection/faqs-inspection.htm

take care, happy trailering

john b - Wisconsin Cheesehead - '83 GL1100A - "06 Aspen Classic (wet for now)


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May-23-06

From Mr Tidy

Ok, this is my opinion from pulling the bunkhouse for @ 6 years. The tounge weight if you read is usually stated that it needs to be 10 to 15% of the total weight of the trailer. If your trailer is 450lbs then 45 to 60 lbs might not be too much. I know your going to get others opinons too but this is what has worked for me. I use a cooler too. When I travel I have water and ice in it for the trip, then go to the store when i get there.
If you place too much weight in the rear of the trailer to try and compensate for a heavy tounge then it will also "wag" on you.
I've found that placing the heaviest things over the axle then distributing the rest out over the trailer. I don't worry too much about the cooler as when ice melts it still weights the same as water.
If your trailer is too light on the tounge it gets a lot more scary than if it's a tad to heavy. When my trailers loaded to the hilt I'm looking at 50lbs tounge weight basically. My bunkhouse is 350lbs empty and @ 450 loaded with what I carry. You may also consider the bike you are using to pull it with. I have a valk and it does not get light on the frontend as would some other bike.

Load it and play with it somewhat till you can go freeway speeds with the trailer load and it feels comfortable to you.

This is what works for me but I know others have their own criteria too that they use. Don't just consider my opinon as gospel.

Hope it might help though.. 

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may 30-06 (my posting again)  Towing
hi,

did you get the brakes??  I did and they are GREAT!!!

my rig weighed in about 425 or so - added some camping things and we are looking at about 550 MAX - have been towing around at 450+- for about 400 miles now... 

the only times that I know that it's there is starting, loooonnggg hills and natch - stopping.. - another thing - WATCH out for hills - going down hill into a corner - decending corners with decending radaii are killers - remember the MSF - Streighten - slow, then turn  - - - cause that trailer WILL push ya!!!.. AND one needs to practice the "SEE" out as far as one can....

I am riding an '83 GL1100A - weighs in at 795 - add riders and we are over 1m.... so caution is the word.

another thing - toung weight.... some advocate 10% of the trailer gross, I am up to 40# now and think that's going to be my tops.... be accurate in this department or you WILL have a TAIL-WAGGER......  I am using a 50# fish scale - 6.96 at gander mountain..... ($120 for the pottie too wife sez that we will NOT be without this tool !!!!)..

take care and have a GREAT trip.

John b - Wisconsin Cheesehead - "83 GL1100a