Current and some Future
Plans for the Trailer
Dec-23 2006 12:14 pm
Things that I have done and future changes.
I am going to make a LIGHT caster thing for the front of the tongue,
cause it's easier to push, rather pull that trailer. (prob will make an
aluminum belly plate w/lip for the front -bottom- of the basement - front and
back - fiberglass ya know)
The stabilizer jacks, are too long with the trailer fully loaded ,,
AGREE 100% -what I did was take two 2x6x about 20" long and cut a bevel
on one end, put a 1x2 block across the other end (trailer runs off the
back without the block - don't ask :>)) ) and just push the trailer up
on it - wa la - legs drop as needed.. (I called the factory and the legs
come in only one length)
I mounted the spare on the back of the trailer with a mount from
bunkhouse.($35.00 at New Hampshire IA fall rally). reinforced both
inside and outsides w/ 1/2"ply and PL200... not a budge or
bounce. Had to redrill two holes to fit our wheel mounting patters(pictures to follow)
Also made the trailer tongue 20" longer - made 500% difference in
sway... none at 95 now... (don't tell the wife)
Contemplating LED lights - maybe in the spring...
Looking at (ideas) of a tarp arraingment for the side/s - I have a ton
of Velcro and need to look around and see just what material the front
awning is made of, that will make a good overfly and/or tarp..
Maybe the Honda gen i2000 ??? will mount on tongue behind the killer
kooler...
More to come... never ending project, but agreeing - still the best bunk
on wheels (we have 2" memory foam toppers - GREATER yet!!! and they take
a lot of slack up from the side cords)
Take care - John b
'83 GL1100A - '06 Aspen Camper
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Homemade Trailer Links
Copied from Delphi Trailer Towing Forum these links are used at your
discursion.
I do not know how good and up-to-date they are:
Just a heads
up about the kits, they most likely will be in boxes in the back, so it
will be up to the store employees if they can help ya peek inside. My
12" trailer came in 2 boxes one was the 12" wheel kit including
suspension and fenders wheels lights ect.. And the second box was the
frame. That said I'm sure the 8" kit that is the same as mine would have
the same frame box and a different 8" wheel kit box.
Here's a bunch of home made trailer links: (Please cut and paste
into your browser as needed)
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=3197686&uid=1665893
http://www.herberts.org/wayne/valk/trailer.htm
http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4287922587&mode=guest
http://photobucket.com/albums/c393/RonKMiller/
http://www.davedragon.org/photos/bmw/trailer/pics.asp
http://www.gadgetjq.com/trailer.htm
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/l_think_l_8_a_bug/album?.dir=/6d63&.src=ph
http://www.oroville-eternal-riders.org/trailer_project.htm
http://people.delphiforums.com/scoffman1/design.html
http://people.delphiforums.com/scoffman1/plans.html
http://photobucket.com/albums/b381/wdmix/Trailer/?action=view¤t=trailer1a.jpg
http://www.gadgetjq.com/trailer_changes_lid.jpg
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sweetmarilie/album?.dir=a53d&.src=ph&store=
&prodid=&
.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com
/ph/sweetmarilie/my_photos
http://people.delphiforums.com/scoffman1/page.html
http://unclebob.mangle.ca/trailer/trailer.htm <---similar to the black
H/F
This one looks exactly like a H/F trailer kit.
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/
ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=7262&R=7262
For the toppers there are a couple main choices, Thule and Sears
http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/carrier_luggage2.asp?location=1
Look at the 667TT Excursion at 13 CU FT or if ya want a pretty small
trailer the 682 sidekick at 8 CU FT is a cool looking box too. these two
have a deeper bottom and are less expensive. All the other Thule boxes
are different in that they are not ABS plastic as far as I can tell,
they are smooth finish and much more ridged but a shallower bottom.
One of the links listed above shows the owner cutting the frame down 3"
on each side and using the bottom existing holes, I believe this would
work well with the 667TT box and possibly the Karrite explorer 18 CU FT,
but be sure to account for fender clearance before you cut.
Sears has this one:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?vertical=AUTO&pid=02872000000
Cutting down the frame rails 2" on each side and using the existing
upper holes fits the sears 20 CU FT carrier really well.
Possibly the Kerrite Explorer, at G.I Joes, Gart Sports and Pep
Boys...See below. This is one of the less expensive toppers but look at
the attached pic
below..http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/karrite_carrier.htm
Whew!
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Folding The Aspen- trailer
wiggle - toung legnth
Folding of the Aspen Trailer - Wiggles - Tongue Length
Hi,
Also have the Classic (new May 06) it's a great camper!
They still have only 2 top poles and the spring loaded foot bar....
Yes the folding up is "different" Will try to explain........ sorry for
the long wind
(all directions are from the rear of the trailer, looking forward to the
tongue from the back)<please excuse all spelling>
- I collapse the unit, straighten all/bar related wrinkles before zipping
up the front screen and door
- fold up the bottom so one edge of the floor (left) hangs just to the
top of the tub on the left (hinge side), the right side IS longer (let
hang for now).
-
I then tug (carefully) all the end layers (front and back) out straight
(they will form a triangle-like) when that is done,
-
take the "point" of the triangles in one hand, lift the bottom part of
the tent up - (which is on top), tuck the triangle material UNDER the
bottom, smooth as needed, will need several smoothing repeats to get all
tucked in...
-
fold the long side of the floor (on the trailer's right side), up and
over so it is on top....
-
I then put the mattress pad (which I have removed from the inside cause
we use memory foam mattresses and they are too thick to stack up all 4
so I remove one before folding...) on TOP of the folded tent,
-
put on the cover..... hope that gets across....
I had a prob with the trailer wiggles.... unstable at any speed over 45
and any tongue weight (I will NOT go over 45#) - so I got a new tongue
bar (one gauge heavier - 1/8" walls) - cut it 20" longer - re-drilled
and repainted and wa-la - steady at all speeds (like a rock ) had up to
80+.....
(40# max is my tongue target - get a 50# fish scale works like a champ - do
NOT guess at this - I balance out the final weight with drinking water
bottles.. you will be surprised what 5 Sam's water bottles moved from
the front to the back will do to the balance weight.... you do NOT want
your load to shift at ALL !!!)
I also have the electric brakes - need to putz a little to get them set
correct, but it's worth it..... stops are smooth.... no down hill
push....
Have needed the duck tape too.... not for the tub area, canvas side must
have pinched someplace....
am running 40# tyre air
it is a load for my GL1100a - mileage goes from 43 to 30-32 -
we are two up (NOT light weights either <smirk>)
BTW, have you actually WEIGHED your trailer MT and loaded??
Use a bathroom scale - do one wheel - times 2 and add the tounge
weight.... mine when new and empty (WITH the cooler kit, electric brakes, awning
kit, bed pockets, chrome kit, spare tyre, rear reflective bumper)
clocked in at 430# new and dry..
mine checks in about 630# with all gear...(it's on a diet, what we do
not use in three trips is getting trimmed out)
You KNOW that it is there..... just be carefuller.
Hope this helps,
john b - Wisconsin Cheesehead - '83 GL110a
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Wisconsin Trailer Brake
Requirements
Hi All,
for what it's worth (not much considering inflation these days) some of
that Wisconsin requires:
When does a trailer need trailer brakes?
Trailer brakes are required if the trailer and load exceed 3,000 pounds
or if the trailer's gross weight exceeds the empty weight of the towing
vehicle. RE: Wisconsin statute 348.10 (4)
Does my trailer need safety chains?
Yes, unless it is a fifth-wheel and king pin assembly mount. Other fifth
wheel mounts require safety chains.
From:
http://www.dot.state.wi.us/statepatrol/inspection/faqs-inspection.htm
take care, happy trailering
john b - Wisconsin Cheesehead - '83 GL1100A - "06 Aspen Classic (wet for
now)
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Just Towing The Trailer / Motorcycle
Aug 29-06
General Discussion - 1st Trip with the tent trailer
Hi,
(this is a long post, but bear with me )
I tow an '06 Aspin Classic - 414# or so MT - 620# or so loaded (have
electric brakes)
NOW - I have drove it (trailer) (turning the brakes off)... it IS a
handful - needs 2-3 times the regular SAFE stopping distance.
- Having said that - if you "let off" or do not "accelerate slightly" in
the turns - THE TRAILER WILL PUSH YOU ALL ALROUND!!!
Turns (and all other movements) need to be slower, more precise <SP??>
and as PLANNED as possible.
Sudden movements --dodging, fast turns, downhill, letting off fast
and/or letting off or breaking downhill and epically downhill turns can
get deadly in a hurry!!
I do not want to be an alarmist, but when you pull anything that is a
significant amount of weight (close to 1/3-1/2 or the bike weight) - you
have to relearn your ride! It can, and is, being done every day - but
you need to adjust your ride style for the load and road.
When I ride two up (wife and I are NOT small) (bike is 700# mt) -
trailer is 625+ - there is a new driver in towne - ME !!
SLOWER - very precise movements - ( acculturation is not there
anyway-forget it ) - turns are well planned, slowed in advance, more
upright and with speed in complete control, passing is just about not
there..... stopping is planned out WWWAAAYYYYY in advance - engine
braking is used a lot (others will disagree - another topic - another
time) - but having said that - with the electric brakes properly tuned
- I can stop the bike/trailer in almost the same distance as I do with
just two up. - I do not plan that - I ride as if there's no brakes on
bike or trailer......
You will want to play with the tongue weight - you will hear the 10%
rule spoken of (10% of the trailer weight on the tongue). IMHO - that is
OK for cars - trucks, etc. they can take the weight and weight sway or
weight throw (side to side)....
But again IMHO - 45# tongue weight is about MAX in any two wheeler... (again there are
differences on this) I try not to run over 40 and am going to play with
this soonest.... MY bike is comfortable (as one can get) with the
trailer combo as I have it loaded....
On my trailer, I extended the tongue 20" and that gave ME a "new
trailer" - (see other posts on that) - it is VERY much more stable
behind the bike and car too. One part of that is that I went from the
thinner tube (I think it's less then 0.120??) to the 1/8" wall - there
IS a lot less flex and twist.... plus the extra length gave me a new
trailer....
Keep the tyres up there (45-50#) - bike tyres up too!
Shocks need help if possible - all unnecessary weight off the bike
(that's what the trailer is for)..., etc.
Above all - common sense and carefulness is the guideline - hope this
rambling helps...
Take care - john b - Wisconsin Cheesehead - '83 GL1100A - '06 Aspin
Classic
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More Towing / Tounge Weight
May-23-06
From Mr Tidy
Ok, this is my opinion from pulling the bunkhouse for @ 6 years. The
tongue weight if you read is usually stated that it needs to be 10 to
15% of the total weight of the trailer. If your trailer is 450lbs then
45 to 60 lbs might not be too much. I know your going to get others
opinions too but this is what has worked for me. I use a cooler too.
When I travel I have water and ice in it for the trip, then go to the
store when I get there.
If you place too much weight in the rear of the trailer to try and
compensate for a heavy tongue then it will also "wag" on you.
I've found that placing the heaviest things over the axle then
distributing the rest out over the trailer. I don't worry too much about
the cooler as when ice melts it still weights the same as water.
If your trailer is too light on the tongue it gets a lot more scary than
if it's a tad to heavy. When my trailers loaded to the hilt I'm looking
at 50lbs tounge weight basically. My bunkhouse is 350lbs empty and @ 450
loaded with what I carry. You may also consider the bike you are using
to pull it with. I have a valk and it does not get light on the
front-end as would some other bike.
Load it and play with it somewhat till you can go freeway speeds with
the trailer load and it feels comfortable to you.
This is what works for me but I know others have their own criteria too
that they use. Don't just consider my opinon as gospel.
Hope it might help though..
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STILL More Towing / Tongue Weight
may 30-06
Towing
hi,
did you get the brakes?? I did and they are GREAT!!!
my rig weighed in about 425 or so - added some camping things and we are
looking at about 550 MAX - have been towing around at 450+- for about
400 miles now...
the only times that I know that it's there is starting, loooonnggg hills
and natch - stopping.. - another thing - WATCH out for hills - going
down hill into a corner - descending corners with descending radii are
killers
- remember the MSF - Straighten - slow, then turn - - - cause
that trailer WILL push ya!!!.. AND one needs to practice the "SEE" out
as far as one can....
I am riding an '83 GL1100A - weighs in at 795 - add riders and we are
over 1m.... so caution is the word.
another thing - toung weight.... some advocate 10% of the trailer gross,
I am up to 40# now and think that's going to be my tops.... be accurate
in this department or you WILL have a TAIL-WAGGER...... I am using a 50#
fish scale - 6.96 at gander mountain..... (120 for the potties too)..
take care and have a GREAT trip.
John b - Wisconsin Cheesehead - "83 GL1100a
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Aspen Camper Side Curtains
Posted on GWRRA message board.
Tom Giesel
Posted on:
Thursday, March 4, 2004 - 4:44 pm:
Rusty, we have the awnings and really like them. They come with
fiberglass rods which can be inserted through sewn in pockets in the
awnings to make them self supporting. The rods are longer than the cargo
compartment and must be bowed to fit inside, a real pain! It takes
several minutes to put the rods through the pockets in the awnings and
the rods must be removed before you fold up the camper. The awnings also
have a grommet in the center and can be staked open using a piece of
rope and a tent stake set out a few feet from the camper. We prefer to
stake them open and leave the fiberglass rods at home. The awnings are
nice on those rainy nights. We can zip the sides open a couple inches
and get a breeze in the camper without getting wet. The awnings
themselves can stay on the camper when you fold it up so once you put
them on there is no need to remove them. I would say they are well worth
the money.
Tom Giesel
2002 Illusion Blue non/ABS
2002 Illusion Blue CycleMate Zephyr Deluxe
2003 Aspen Classic
nutter message in response to the above one
Herb Didier
Posted on: Friday, March 5, 2004 - 7:45 am:
I just bought a 2003 Aspen Classic and have not used it, yet; but I did
some things that I might share.
I took a 5'x7' (6'x8')tarp and ran a velcro strip along one side. it
fits the velcro that is on the Aspen and I can run ties from there. The
tarp fits well, it gives some privacy, and should guide the rain away
from the camper. This works for all 3 sides of the camper.
I bought the velcro from Wal-Mart. It is found in the fabric dept. I
bought the Industrial strength type. I also bought some generic tent
poles from Wal-Mart in the camping section. They also work out fine.
I also took on of my tarps and put it (with the velcro) on the opposite
end of the camper from the door. I put velcro on the underside of the
floor, and made a tight wrap of that end of the camper. I then cut a
hole in it to fit an air conditioner. I bought a slide projector stand
from a camera store. I can set the Air conditioner on the stand and blow
cold air from that end of the camper, without cutting a hole in the
camper.
Like I said, I haven't used it yet; but I have had it set up in the yard
and it "seems" like it will work.; without a lot of work to set up/take
down.
Hope this makes sense on what I did.
Ride Safe. Herd
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